Studio portrait of a Saami man, standing, wearing an animal skin jacket and a distinctive hat, identified in a handwritten note as being from Luleå, Sweden.
Photographer: Rosalie Sjöman studio (Stockholm, Sweden), labelled ‘Rosalie Sjöman’
Date of photograph: Circa 1870s
Geographical area: Northern Europe
Cultural group: European Saami
Format: Carte de visite, hand-coloured
Size: 100 x 61 mm
Acquisition: Joan Evans. Donated August 1941
Exhibition label: ‘One of a selection of cartes de visite showing portraits of Saami people. The photographs were taken or sold by several different studios in Norway and Sweden, including those of Jørgen Wickstrøm in Tromsø, Rosalie Sjöman in Stockholm and Braekstad & Co., a stationers based in Trondheim. The carte de visite was a popular early form of traded image, patented in Paris in 1854 and widely produced until replacement by the larger cabinet card two decades later. These cartes de visite were collected by Arthur Evans, probably some time after his own visit to Lapland in 1873, but revealing an ongoing interest in the region and its people. Among the most striking are those by Marcus Selmer, who is recorded as one of the earliest photographers in Scandinavia. Selmer was a Danish pharmacist who moved to Bergen in 1851 and established a photography studio there, specialising initially in daguerreotypes, but later embarking on a project to photograph people and their costumes from across the country. The hand-painted prints, with their bright blues and reds, would have reminded Evans of his own travels in the region, where he was stuck by the colourful sense of dress, writing of “elaborate embroidery” and the hat worn by women like “Minerva’s helmet, exquisitely graceful”.’ Source: ‘Travels in Finland and Bosnia-Herzegovina: An Ethnographic Collection of Sir Arthur Evans’, exhibition curated by Philip Grover, Pitt Rivers Museum, University of Oxford, 29 April to 1 September 2013.
Primary documentation: ‘[p.588] Dr. JOAN EVANS, from the property of the late SIR ARTHUR EVANS, Youlbury, Boars Hill, Oxford. [List of items follows]’; ‘[p.590] 38 photographs, many coloured, of Lapp types, in box’: Pitt Rivers Museum accession records (Donations X, 1937–1941), pp.588, 590. Notes on mount: ‘Luleå Lap’ (written in pencil on mount card); ‘ROSALIE SJÖMAN[’]s/ Fotografi Atelier/ STOCKHOLM/ No. 42 Drottninggatan No. 42/ in på gården/ 2 tr. upp/ Plåten förvaras för efterbeställning’ (printed on reverse of mount card).
Research notes: This carte de visite has been identified as a photograph by Rosalie Sjöman (1833–1919), taken from the printed information on the reverse. Sjöman’s studio is described as being located at ‘Drottninggatan No. 42’ in Stockholm.